ON THE ROAD: 韩国印象之三：三郎城和传灯寺

2007年11月6日，由于workshop的正式活动是下午才开始，起来后很悠闲地面对着韩国优美的乡间景色吃了一顿慢条斯理的早餐。在这一阵子疯狂的出差中，这真是一种美妙的人生享受。

从江华岛的介绍中得知，这里应该是一个自然和人文风景云集的地方。看看江华岛的旅游地图，颇为诱人。在这暖暖的秋日中，如果能够骑着自行车晃悠在满山的金色秋叶之中，也算是人生一大爽事了。只可惜，这个所谓的四星级酒店连个自行车都没有的租，实在是太煞风景了。只好和邵老师信步前去地图上最近的一个城堡看看。

初看三郎城，几乎和国内的风景区差不多。出了山脚下的停车场后，一条小路蜿蜒而上，而小路的两边则是各种各样的小商店和小摊小贩，只是满眼的韩文招牌是一个也不认识。

这是大韩民国政府对其第130号历史保护地“Samnagseong（三郎城）”的描述：It is not obvious when this castle was built, but according to the records “Goryeo History” it is said that the founding father of Korea, Dangun had his three sons make this castle and named it “Samnagseong Castle”. It is also called jeongjok mountain fortress wall. At the start, it was built with a sort of mud, and broken stones were laid on it again. This style is followed the fortification of the period of three kingdoms. Facilities of this castle were the Nammun-ru (the south gate tower), and the Bukmun (the north gate tower) and 13 wells in castle. There is Jeondeungsa Temple in this castle. The government also built achieves here for the preservation of the royal chronicles, and established a temporary palace in this castle. In the middle of the Joseon dynasty, the “Seonwonbogak” was built. In 1866, general Yang Heon-su defeated the French naval invaders. He south gate, Jonghea-ru, was restored to its original condition in 1976.

城中的还有一个规模不小的“传灯寺”，依山而建，布局不似中土的寺庙那般强调对称，随意中又透着几分规整。其大雄宝殿只有三个开间，无论从规制上，还是从精致上，都无法和中土或日本的寺庙相比。但是极为有趣的是大殿四角屋檐之下居然各摆放着一具蹲着的裸体女人雕像，在寺庙建筑中，简直是匪夷所思。其官方解释是：Rebuilt in the 13th year (1621) of King Gwangheagun’s rule over the Joseon Dynasty, this wooden building is three kan (a traditional architectural measurement, meaning the distance between two columns) at the front and back and here kan at the sides. The building has finely carved multi-tier wooden ornaments on the top of each column as well as between columns. All columns show entasis with slight convex curve in the middle, creating a stable look, and the four corner columns have carvings of naked women at the apex. Legend says that the architect designed them to warn against the unfaithfulness of women, and purge her fro the sin, after his lover ran away from him during the construction work. Three Buddhas are enshrined in the hall, which features a lavishly decorated ceiling with bright colors and sculptures of animals and flowers such as dragons, phoenixes and lotus blossoms. The altar and the canopy over it are also exuberantly decorated.

总体而言，我觉得三郎城给人的感觉还是相当舒服，基本保持了一个遗址所应该给人的感觉，大片的处于原始状态的山坡和满眼的金黄落叶，给人以相当舒服的感觉。不似国内的很多遗址，大有不搞成一个城市公园绝不罢休的气势。其实遗迹就是给人凭吊历史、追寻过去、浮想翩翩的地方，今古不分，还有何意义？